Saturday, 30 September 2006

Krakow - September 27,28,29 2006




It was a long journey to Krakow from Budapest. In fact, getting to Krakow isn’t the easiest task in the world unless you fly. We also had only five minutes between connecting trains somewhere in the middle of the Czech Republic, so were rather concerned that our train was actually going to make the connection. In the end, we got there ok, which was a relief as a friend of ours visited a month after us and he had to wait for several hours after missing a connection somewhere in Poland.

Due to the longer journey to Krakow, we had booked three nights there, despite Krakow being a small town. Besides, we had planned to visit Auschwitz-Birkenau concentration camp, so an extra day was required.

Krakow is a small town as mentioned, with a massive town square…seriously, it is enormous, with an undercover market area in the centre and surrounded by loads of restaurants, bars and cafes….no doubt filled with the great unwashed when the weather warms up, enjoying the cheap beer and food. Where possible, we try to avoid the Brits overseas.

Krakow features a Royal Castle which was quite good, although we didn’t go inside….however, the royal courtyard was very impressive and ornately decorated. Again, the castle, as always, was on the hill with views across town and the sweeping river.
There are also medieval cobbled streets which were interesting and we managed to eat traditional polish food at a restaurant called Polskie Smarkie.
Interesting, especially the pasta with lard chunks on top. Hmmmm.

The major reason for our visit to Krakow though was to visit Auschwitz, which we did on the second day. We caught a bus there and this included a local guide who was very respectful and informative.






Not sure there is a good way to describe Auschwitz except to say that it is incredible that people can be treated the way they were by the Nazi’s.
There are two parts to the concentration camp, with Auschwitz featuring brick based buildings that housed the prisoners. There were also gas chambers, which we walked through and more poignantly, masses and masses of human hair, (which was recycled by the Nazis into socks, overcoats, etc) spectacles, luggage bags, shoes, etc. And these masses of Jewish possessions were only the tip of the iceberg.

Birkenau, by comparison, is a short drive away and was partially destroyed by the Nazis as the war was ending, and featured wooden huts, built by the prisoners themselves, with bunks. Must have been absolutely freezing.
Also, there was a railway track in the centre of the camp where the Jewish people were unloaded from the train, after paying their own way there no less, and they were divided into two lines by some Nazis, those who were strong and fit for work, and those who were weaker, smaller, younger, older or generally unfit for work. These people were sent to the gas chambers under the pretence of having a shower whilst the former group were sent to work...but they lived.

It was very sad and poignant, but again, you have to learn from the past and move forwards into the future…all the time recognising the mistakes of the past, to ensure they are not replicated in the present or future.
Definitely a place that makes you appreciate your own life and good fortune.